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When compiling a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred establishments. However, tucked near the top among these food titans is a modest salonu located in a distant part of north London.

An Shocking Accolade

This compact Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. This accolade has left the family utterly astonished.

“I’m totally shocked,” says a proprietor, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their modest shop securing such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its former charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the food, and this eatery definitely delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent consistency.

It is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in less syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, toastier and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Stars

Notably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for under £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into many times that amount.

The Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Dedication

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not work at elite establishments. “I feel very proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate beyond its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this culinary honour.